Exploring Escalante’s Sandstone Surprises – April 2025

After a long winter, I returned to one of my favorite hiking destinations—Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument. This time, I joined my hiking club for a three-day adventure exploring Escalante’s sandstone surprises – a cathedral, an ashtray, and hidden arches.

I hit the road early from just north of Denver and reached Escalante around 3 p.m. Along the way, I made a must-stop at Kiva Koffeehouse, tucked into the cliffs just outside of town. The coffee was great, and the views were even better.

Once I got into town, I checked into Prospector Inn, a no-frills but super convenient spot for hikers. Then, I swung by the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center to pick up a map of nearby trails.

Just a couple minutes’ drive west on Highway 12, I arrived at Escalante Petrified Forest State Park. A $10 day pass got me access to the trails and a helpful brochure highlighting geological points of interest.

My first stop was a showstopper—a 50-foot petrified log from the Morrison Formation. It’s hard to believe something that ancient could look so perfectly preserved.

Next, I set out on the Petrified Forest Trail, a one-mile loop that climbs about 200 feet before leveling out. The trail gives sweeping views of Wide Hollow Reservoir and the pink cliffs Bryce Canyon National Park in the distance. It was enjoyable to stop along the way to view colorful petrified wood and desert flora. If I hiked this trail again, I’d bring poles, as it was a bit steeper and sandier than expected.

I skipped the optional Sleeping Rainbows Trail (a 0.75-mile loop branching off the main path) this time. I learned that petrified wood forms through permineralization. This means minerals carried by water replace the organic material, turning it to stone over millions of years.

And then there’s the local legend: take a piece of petrified wood, and you’ll be cursed with bad luck. Some blame ancient spirits guarding the land. Either way, I left every rock exactly where I found it!

The next morning, I joined my hiking crew for a trek to the Golden Cathedral, one of Escalante’s most iconic sights.

We left Escalante at 8:15 a.m., heading east on Highway 12 before turning right onto the infamous Hole-in-the-Rock Road. If the name doesn’t give it away, the 16 miles of bump-and-rattle driving is not for the faint of suspension. Next, we turned onto Egypt Road—10 miles of increasingly rough terrain, feeling a bit like a mechanical bull ride. The 30-mile drive there took a little over an hour. Bring a high-clearance vehicle or risk donating your undercarriage to the desert.

Starting from the Egypt Trailhead, we began our 10-mile out-and-back hike with a scenic downhill route over slickrock and sand. The views were stellar! By 9:30 a.m., we were deep into the hike, trekking under clear skies and plenty of sunshine. For three hours, we soaked up the solitude of the canyons, the towering red walls, and occasional pockets of shade.

About two miles in, we met the Escalante River. We crossed it five times, knee-deep in cool, refreshing water that made our feet happy. Bring shoes that you don’t mind getting wet; if not, it’s not an adventure until your boots squish a little.

And then—finally—we arrived. The Golden Cathedral, nestled at the lower end of Neon Canyon, greeted us like something straight out of a dream. We witnessed three massive natural arches, formed by potholes whose bottoms had eroded away. Beams of sunlight poured through onto a shallow pool below. It dawned on me that photos won’t adequately depict the beauty here; one must experience it in person.

We kicked off our boots and enjoyed a long lunch, taking in the quiet magic of the place. The way the light bounced off the water and danced across the canyon walls felt like watching a silent film.

We swapped stories and took in the beauty of our surroundings. One group member shared he had once rappelled down the Golden Cathedral from the top of Neon Canyon. I was both impressed and slightly horrified. Admiring canyoneering from the bottom was just fine with me!

At 1:45 p.m., we reluctantly began our uphill return. The ascent is manageable, if you’re in decent shape. Mentally, it feels like climbing out of a canyon both physically and emotionally. Thankfully, the 70-degree weather and a nice breeze made it bearable. This hike is no joke. If you’re going in warmer temps, start early or feel like a solar panel in boots!

We reached the trailhead around 5:30 p.m. We felt sandy, tired, and accomplished. An hour later, a few of us celebrated the only way true hikers know how: cold drinks and hot food. We landed at the 4th West Pub on Highway 12, which, by that point, felt like an oasis. The staff was friendly, the drinks were ice cold, and my turkey and avocado panini hit like a spiritual experience. (If the hike doesn’t bring you joy, a sandwich here might.)

After good food, great company, and a full day of adventuring, sleep came easily—and it was glorious.

The Golden Cathedral hike was tough, beautiful, a sandy, and 100% unforgettable. The wild drive, the river crossings, and the magical canyon finale made this a memorable trek. I’d conquer this hike again, but maybe not tomorrow.

I woke up feeling rested and pumped for the day’s hike to this wild spot in Escalante called the Cosmic Ashtray.

I met up with the crew around 8 a.m., and we cruised east on Highway 12. After turning onto Spencer Flat Road for a few miles, we hit the trailhead. I felt pleased the drive was way smoother than the brutal off-roading we did the day before. (But hey, if you’re up for a rocky ride, an alternate hike to the Cosmic Ashtray is via the Hole-in-the-Rock-Road. I’ve read you can cut six miles off your trek with a 4×4 vehicle.)

Hiking to the Ashtray isn’t exactly obvious. I recommend you download a map before you go, or you’ll end up on a bonus desert tour. Luckily, our group leader had her GPS going strong. The rest of us just kept scanning the slickrock for those little rock piles (cairns). Cairns are supposed to guide you… when you can actually spot them.

We started hiking around 9 a.m. The whole trail is about eight miles out and back. The first stretch of sand was mildly unpleasant with my mesh hiking boots. I had to stop three times just to shake the sand out. The shining sun and temps in the 60s and 70s, it felt pretty ideal – until the wind showed up. Big props to my sun hat’s chin strap for hanging in there.

About 3.5 miles in, we started looping around this massive, smooth, white sandstone dome. Then our leader goes, “There it is!” and we all lit up. One last little climb across some slickrock, a squeeze through this narrow pass, and boom—Cosmic Ashtray in full view.

We gazed upon the large otherworldly crater in the middle of nowhere. I whipped out my phone right away to grab pics. We enjoyed lunch and took it all in. A few people strapped into harnesses and got lowered down into the crater. Moqui steps carved right into the stone help guide hikers down. I stayed topside and cheered them on with the rest of the group.

After hanging out for a good three hours, we started heading back. The wind felt relentless! Most of us kept our heads down, didn’t talk much, and made a beeline for the trailhead. Hats were flying, hair was everywhere—it was a whole vibe. We got back after about 2.5 hours, a little beat but feeling amped from the experience.

Later on, I was back at 4th West Pub with some of the crew. We shared stories and laughs over a cold drinks and paninis which tasted like heaven after our hike!

That night, I crashed hard. It’s been a good day – quirky, sandy, windy as heck… and totally unforgettable.

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After a restful night’s sleep, I woke feeling refreshed and ready for one final hike. For our last outing, I opted for a relatively easy six-mile trek to Maverick Bridge and Phipps Arch.

From our hotel, we drove 14.5 miles east on Highway 12 to the Escalante River Trailhead. With limited parking available, we joined others in the common practice of parking along the roadside. We followed the Escalante River Trail east, enjoying the cool morning air, filtered sunlight, and river music.

At about 0.8 miles in, we changed into water shoes to cross the river. Not long after, we carefully made our way along a narrow section where the water hugged a stone wall. Around 1.5 miles, we turned right onto Phipps Wash Trail, entering a wide sandy wash framed by dramatic canyon walls. We felt the day’s heat as we slogged through the soft sand, pausing for photo opportunities.

Roughly thirty minutes later, at around 2.6 miles, we made another right turn into a narrower canyon. After a short walk, Maverick Bridge appeared—almost unexpectedly. After passing, we realized we had crossed over the arch, which sits subtly beneath your feet. The name “Maverick” felt perfectly apt for this hidden gem.

After a break for photos and water, we retraced our steps to the wash. We continued another twenty minutes to reach the junction for Phipps Arch at 3.2 miles. From there, we scrambled up a small sandstone ledge and began a gentle climb. A few minutes later, the final approach to the Phipps Arch required a class 3 scramble up a rock ledge. Most of our group chose to skip the climb and instead settled on a rocky outcrop below to enjoy lunch. Those who continued to the arch returned grinning, sharing photos and stories from their elevated viewpoint.

The hike back was warm, but we enjoyed the refreshing moments spent walking beside and through the Escalante River. Approximately five hours and forty-five minutes after setting out, we returned to our cars, tired but satisfied.

That evening, we gathered at Escalante Outfitters for a hearty meal and drinks. We swapped stories from the past three days of adventure and reminisced about previous Utah trips. Later, our entire group reunited at the Circle D picnic area for a campfire and refreshments. We chatted about upcoming summer plans and learned about a future group trip to Utah already in the works.

Back in my room, I packed my gear and prepared for an early departure the next morning. A hint of sadness settled in as I thought about leaving my hiking companions and the unforgettable adventure of exploring Escalante’s sandstone surprises.

The next morning, I was all business. After a restless night, I hit the road at 4 a.m. – not exactly my brightest decision. Leaving Escalante in the dark meant missing out on the area’s stunning early morning views. Plus, navigating the winding roads through the Fishlake National Forest between Boulder and Torrey is no easy task. The drive through Capitol Reef National Park is equally slow and deliberate.

Still, the effort paid off. Just before reaching Hanksville, UT, I was rewarded with a breathtaking sunrise that made the early departure worthwhile.

Even on a Sunday, the rest of the journey felt swift. The weather was gorgeous, and the traffic seemed to flow flawlessly. Just as I had on April 23rd, I chuckled as I passed Exit 119 on I-70 with a green sign titled “No Name.” One day, I’ll explore the exit to see where it leads. By starting early, I managed to avoid the typical late-afternoon traffic near Denver on I-70. It was a joy to arrive home safely – greeted by family and my favorite furry companion, Sophie Mae.