In mid-August 2021, I participated in a guided three-night backpacking trek along the Bechler River in Yellowstone National Park. I was joined by six amazing women, three being hiking friends from San Diego, CA. We boarded an Alaska Airlines flight from San Diego to the Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport. Since Covid-19 was still a concern at this time, we donned masks for the flight. I enjoyed the flight, anticipating the fun ahead and enjoying a complimentary glass of wine. We stayed in the motel where we would be meeting our guides the following morning.
August 12, 2021
The next morning, we gathered bear cannisters and provisions from our guides, adding at least ten pounds to our packs. I used my REI 55 Flash backpack tent and sleeping bag/pad and had just enough room for the cannister. We felt excitement during our three-hour van ride to our trailhead in southwestern Yellowstone National Park.
We drove east from West Yellowstone, MT and south of the Upper Geyser Basin within the park (i.e., Old Faithful). After our guides reminded us not to overpack, a few of us shed unnecessary clothes and toiletries we wouldn’t need – a great relief!
We commenced our hike at the Lone Star Geyser Trailhead, a little over two miles from the Lonestar Geyser. We enjoyed lunch at the geyser and witnessed its eruption, which occurs every three hours. Shortly after, we turned left on Shoshone Lake Trail (part of the Continental Divide Trail) where we crossed the Firehole River, which eventually parallels the trail. We passed by the Lone Star Geyser Basin (bubbly pools and mud pots) which was a real treat!
At six miles into our trek, we were surprised by a juvenile male grizzly on the trail! After the initial shock, we quickly formed our group accordion position with bear spray in hands. Lucky for us, Mr. Bear showed little interest dealing with seven chatty women!
After ten miles, we finally reached the Continental Divide backcountry campsite, our home for the night. As the evening cooled, we set up tents, sipped warm tea, and enjoyed a delicious dinner cooked by our guides. This was my first experience backpacking at a backcountry campsite. We practiced keeping all our “smellies” (toiletry and food items) out of our tents and in bear cannisters – bear safety! This was also my first experience using a back country privy!
August 13, 2021
The next morning, after a wonderful breakfast cooked by our guides, we took off on our first full day of backpacking. We hiked into the Bechler Valley through forest and meadows, and after a few miles, we hiked along the fast-running Bechler River. We were delighted to set up camp at the Bechler Column backcountry campsite (near Twister Falls) in the early afternoon.
It was exciting to don our swimming attire and day-hike a few short miles to a private wilderness spa in the woods – “Mr. Bubbles“. The temperature of the clear water was soothing. Our guides surprised us with an afternoon spread of healthy munchies, like hummus, berries, salami, cheese, etc. The delicious lunch made for a very memorable and fun day! Later at camp, our guides prepared a hearty dinner while several ladies picked huckleberries to put in the next morning’s pancakes!
August 14, 2021
The following day, we enjoyed our pancake breakfast and hot beverages before breaking camp. We set out to experience a big day of water crossings along the Bechler River and were grateful for a day without significant elevation! Fortunately, all of us remembered to pack water shoes for the two chilly, thigh-high, fast-moving water. We worked together to cross rapid water, unhooking our packs as a safety measure so we wouldn’t get carried away if we lost footing. For our efforts, we were late rewarded with views of the exquisite Iris Falls!
After about nine miles of warm hiking, we were excited to arrive at our Colonnade Falls backcountry campsite. Once we set up camp, we donned our swimming clothes again to relax for about an hour in the cool river water. I found dinner and conversation particularly wonderful during the cool evening.
August 15, 2021
We awoke to what would be our final day hiking together. After a scrumptious breakfast, we began our journey through the lower sections of Bechler Canyon. We certainly did not mind the long, flat stretch with berry bushes, meadows, and a few boulders. After just one more river crossing, and with glee, we reached the Bechler River Ranger Station around noon and enjoyed well-earned lunch.
We enjoyed a laughter-filled drive back to Bozeman, stopping in West Yellowstone for some souvenir shopping. Ending my journey and parting with newfound friends felt bittersweet, yet I looked forward to returning home to my furry friend Sophie Mae. My three friends and I stayed one more night in Bozeman and flew out the following morning. I give the Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport high marks. The inside looks and feels a little like a mountain lodge, and the shops are enticing!
This challenging trek was my first real backpacking experience. I highly recommend you visit Yellowstone, and if you get a chance, don a backpack and check out the Bechler River Trail. If you’ve ever visited Yellowstone National Park or plan to, I’d love to hear from you!